#3 Acclimitization

Well I've see an olive tree or I suppose in proper vernacular; I have been extended an olive branch? As with my amazement when I first saw citrus growing in California or Florida, I was amazed to see an olive tree, in an olive grove (I had to look up the name of the place where olive trees grow). Actually not much different looking than a crab apple tree, same size, similar foliage, and same looking "fruit" (there are six natural types - thanks google). I discovered this treasure (truth be told I don't like olives - preferring my martinis with a lemon twist) while taking a walk this morning. Our compound is on the western edge of the city and in very close proximity to a valley that extends for some way. It must have been someones farm as I did pass a house and the trappings of farm life in the Middle East. The valley setting is important I am assuming as when it does rain here water will follow the path of least resistance (like electricity ironically enough) and that is downhill (for water that is). The whole valley was littered with channels and hoses to allow water to get to where it is needed. In addition to olives, there was what appeared to be a palm forest – though later was told it was a date farm (being a prairie boy what do I know about where/how dates grow?). I’m in love with the palm tree (a representation for me of somewhere hot) and the date farm looked like a perfect oasis to me! Another surprise on my walk was a small herd of cows grazing in lowest part of the valley field, on what skimpy vegetation they had to feed on. Who knew that in the land of the camel what I see first is a cow. Though I did some camels on my drive:

Speaking of water I was surprised to learn that it does rain here, sometimes quite fiercely. Despite the modern freeways and infrastructure they didn’t plan well for these few times it does rain (annual rainfall here is about four inches vs about 21 in Winnipeg) as few places have adequate drainage (if any). Freeway underpasses are quickly filled with water making them impassable, and desert sand becomes a mucky mess (I haven't seen the vast dunes of fine sand we see on tv). While annual rainfall is only 4in/year I get the impression it arrives in only a few quick bursts. I myself have yet to see any rain.

Next in my continued acclimatization with Riyahd is getting my wheels. As part of my contract here we are provided with vehicles (there is virtually no public transportation) to get to work, shop, and explore. For me I took Friday morning (our weekends are Friday/Saturday) to just drive and see if I could get lost in this vast city. Well, sort of get lost as all cars have a GPS with our home the first place marked. Here is another oddity I never thought of: a few days after I hopped in the car to get some groceries only to find the battery dead - what the hell? I didn't leave lights on (they are automatic) or anything else so what did I do?? Turns out like cold the oppressive heat reduces battery life significantly as others have had the same thing happen to them.

Good news story here is that the guy next to me on the flight from Frankfurt to Riyahd was to consult on the new metroline they are building here. It is currently the longest/largest public transportation system being built in the world with 176.5 kms of track, with 96 stations. Money is not an object in this oil rich economy so they are building everything at once to the tune of $22 billion. You see the spoils of oil wealth everywhere. Building cranes everywhere, new buildings and other infrastructure rising from the ground. We pass on our way to and from work the new Riyahd Financial District – a sprawling cluster of 34 towers of all shapes and sizes. Again it is not being built one at a time, but all at once. I am still amazed every time I pass by. The price tag? $8 billion.

First a few highlights about the driving culture here. First off they are fast, while speed limits are posted no one, it seems, adheres to what is posted. I have seen guys pass in a blur they are going so fast (and we are doing 110 – 120 kms/hr) and this is not uncommon. Religion plays a hand in the need for speed – Allah is looking after me, or the most common word (phonetic spelling) – Enchala = God willing.

Should you happen to find yourself in the fast lane, guys (remember women cannot drive in this country) will come up behind very close and flash their headlights until they get the desired response. Signals are hardly ever used, and people weave in and out of traffic, sometimes at great speeds, in a rush to get somewhere. Unlike Nigeria where most cars are old wrecks coughing out exhaust like mosquito foggers, people have money here and most cars are newer and some very expensive. Off the freeway it is not uncommon for people to turn left from the far right hand lane or vice verse, and horn use is liberal. I laugh ever time that in that instant when a light turns green there is someone honking their horn. In part because the traffic lights are mounted beside you vs overtop the intersection as we are used to, hence if you are at the front of the line, you must look out your side window to see when the light turns green. Thankfully my drive was uneventful in that there were no traffic incidents, but eventful in providing me some orientation as to the city layout. I drove for some three hours and about 190 kms before returning home. I got to several districts in the city and travelled a short way east out of the city limits where industrial facilities are located, and I saw, albeit quickly, as I passed at 120kms/hr a herd of camels (see picture above). You quickly acclimatize to the prevailing speed as I often heard the car beep at me (programmed to do so when exceeding 120kms/hr). With the exception of trucks the vast majority of people on the freeways, of which there are many, cruise at above 100kms/hr.

Now that I’m comfortable with getting around on my own I look forward to further exploration and experiences going forward, including finding some good ethnic restaurants, which includes many East Indian restaurants of which I am a big fan. I also want to find a place where the locals go to get one of the most common dishes of this country called kapsa. Kapsa is just a simple blend of spiced rice and either chicken or lamb either on top or sliced and mixed in with the rice. Traditionally it is, as a lot of food is, sitting cross legged on the floor with several platters of food in the middle where people reach in with their RIGHT hand or with a piece of fatir, the traditional flat bread, for stews and curries. Very important is you use ONLY your right hand. The left hand here is used only for bathroom duty and is an insult to any Saudi to offer your left hand for almost anything. This is evident in all the toilets I have visited, even in my villa. My villa has two bidets, and the downstairs bathroom has a nozzle thing (much like people have at home in the kitchen sink that extends out to rinse) that is hooked on the wall. While there is toilet paper I'm not sure how often the rinse function is used. I don't know how people function here if you are left handed?? Don't let out this secret but being right handed myself, clean up is also with my right hand. 

What I find peculiar about the culture here is the interaction of Saudi’s and expats (again this is based on men only – as I have not had an opportunity, nor will I probably have the opportunity to talk to any Saudi woman). Saudi’s in general I find very friendly, warm, inviting people – yet oddly it is rare to socialize with any Saudi’s outside of the workplace. English is widely spoken albeit with a heavy accent, so thankfully the language barrier is not too bad. Whether that is a religious or cultural thing I cannot say for sure, though I’m sure a mixture of both.

My other quest is to find a nice, traditional white thobe (minus the head gear) to wear to work. Why? A couple of reasons; one, it is easy and you don’t have to decide what to wear, and two, they are extremely comfortable as I know from buying one in Nigeria (it is called a kaftan their). Should you come knocking on my door at home you will usually find me in it as it has become a staple of my lounge wear at home. I was talking to a nice kid (Abdullah) in our office about these things – of course I ask the tough questions like “what do you wear underneath?” (Usually a pair of same color pants and T-shirt). When I asked if I would be offending anyone by wearing it he said – of course not – we wear jeans and shirts so why couldn’t you wear a thobe?

Let the quest begin. Until next time. . . .

A vast landscape of sun and sand
But never, ever with a beer in hand