#11 A few more Tall Tales

As I approach the end of my brief career in the Middle East, there is still time to experience what this place has to offer.

When I was in Timor in 2009, I got involved in the “Hash” a worldwide organization that brings expats together wherever they happen to be on this vast globe. Saudi Arabia is no exception; having their own local chapter. The Hash meets weekly on days off (Friday in our case) and provides a little bit of exercise, and a large dose of socializing. In the case of this local chapter, there have been over 2,000 consecutive walks/runs – representing some 40 years. Usually held later in the afternoon, everyone meets at a different spot weekly. Offered are three different exercise options: run, long walk, and a short walk. Before hand is a brief ceremony where new members are welcomed, visitors are recognized, and some information as to who is the “Hare” that leads each of the different exercise options.

The Saudia chapter is unique in a couple of ways, due to its unique cultural morays. Specifically, it is held outside the city limits in some remote location. This is so women need not where the abaya, and any ‘refreshment’ that may show up is safe to consume. The other limit is there is no advertising of the event – you must first seek out a member to know where the next meeting will be held. In fact, at yesterday’s meeting, there was a little lecture as to what you can or cannot do. In this case, you should never post anything on social media. As the head master explained it, the Saudi’s know the Hash exists, but tolerates it as long as it is kept clandestine. If it is flaunted, the Saudi’s have little choice but to step in. This apparently had just happened when someone did post something on Facebook and some of the offending members had the pleasure of visiting the local police for most of the day. Hence, the edict was reiterated again at this meeting: if you ever post something on social media, you will be banned for life.

In any case, the event finally got under way with a challenging long walk (my chosen option) that descending into a small valley and up again for about 5 kilometers in the 40 degree heat of the late afternoon.

Half way through the walk a water cooler had been put with a cooler full of welcomed fruit (watermelon and orange wedges).

I was told that his event is held all through the year including during the extreme summer heat, albeit later in the day. Afterward people sit around visit and depart. We were back at our villa at approximately 7pm. Note the farmer tan on my legs. 

A good event, something I would have liked to attend more had I known.

The other interesting tidbit in this story is getting there. We descend into a valley where many traditional Arabic tents are set up, among other makeshift shelters with the ubiquitous camels milling about. I was told this represented the “other middleclass” of people that want a rural lifestyle away from the city. The closest analogy might be hobby farmer back at home. Again, this is in the harshest of environments. I am struck that being devoid of vegetation there is no shade to find, other than what you make yourself. Suddenly you see how if trapped in the desert you could not survive long: no vegetation to escape from the sun, nothing to eat, no water to drink. Sure, we have winter – but there is wildlife and vegetation that you might be able to etch out some survival.

Sadly, this event did not include any alcohol that sometimes does make its appearance. Rumor has it that embassy staff sometime show with a case or two of real beer. Hashes I attended in Timor where the mantra was “a running club with a drinking problem”, provided, following the run, beer and coolers in your admission price and consumed in great quantities (there were Australians there). Bottom line: this is a great place for expats to have a little respite from the harsh realities of Saudi culture. Yesterday’s meeting saw visitors from the Ukraine, South Africa, UK, Ethiopia, and Sweden.

Onto another subject completely different. Examples of Saudi lifestyle and the contrasts to our North American way of life are sometimes so far apart. Again, my friend Ahmed provides me with a wealth of insight into the Saudi way of life. We went for lunch across at the mall again and while waiting for our food at the Dairy Queen outlet we started sharing our wallet contents: the usually credit cards (albeit with different bank symbols), drivers licence, and the like. What he did have was a resident card for lack of a better term. I hesitate to use social insurance/security card as it had a wealth of information on it. First the usually name, birth date, etc. However, it had more transient information as well: address and wife and child/s names. What really caught my attention is the back of this card. There was an empty table and some Arabic writing. I asked Ahmed – what is this space for I asked? Again completely normal for him, he replies that is for any “extra” wives you might have. Utah has nothing on this place!

Another good example of the male dominated society here in Saudi Arabia. After a meeting finished with my two primary colleagues, Ahmed and Khaled we were chewing the fat with them giving me some quick Arabic words when we got on the subject of religion and specifically their beliefs and the Qur’an. To make a long story short the idea is to pray and believe in Allah, be good in your life and you go to heaven. Ordinary stuff right. However, heaven in this case is a Shangri-La for womanizers the world over. In this heaven, men are greeted by a bounty of beautiful women to satisfy your every desire. When I asked the obvious question of what about women - do they get the same gift except filled with beautiful men? I was met with blank stares – this was something that was not spelled out in the holy book. Sure the world in terms of women’s rights is not equal even in North America, here in the Middle East they are many years behind that. Ironically, though unlike women’s suffrage in the United States, women here do have the right to vote. Strange.

Strange yes, though there are some things I do love about this place. The dress code (men anyway) is stellar. I have gone on at length about the thawb, and all its many benefits. The other thing I love is I never wear socks or shoes - just sandals. In fact the Hash was the first time in a month or so since I had worn my shoes or socks. Brilliant! 

Notwithstanding the mess in my room here is a photo of my 'wardrobe': two thawbs back from the masala (laundry), and two on go that I have miraculously not soiled yet! Believe me thats a tough job with the beautiful pure white color. While I prefer white, Ahmed and I argue at length abou the virtues of the white (my preference) and the creme color (his presence). In that great accent of his - must have creme thawb - you be very handsome! 

An eight-hour difference, new experiences, and I’m still alive and breathing
The experience of a lifetime that terminates in only ten days with my leaving.